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MY OTHER PASSIONS | |||||||||
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Vegetarian Cooking Yoga Spanish
Language Mexico In Taxco, in the state of Guerrero, we dipped in out of tiny wholesale shops, helping Laura buy silver jewelry for her small importing business. The abeyant shopper in me began to bud and I had to resist the urge to order for myself every pretty necklace, bracelet or earring. The city of Taxco sprawls up the hills from the old mine, in steep and narrow cobblestone streets. It seemed like every car was a white Volkswagen, either a bug or a van; the bugs are the taxis and the vans are city buses. I loved the cavernous half-above, half-underground mercado where I found my snack of freshly roasted, perfectly salted pumpkinseeds as well as a souvenir skeleton man, who holds a miniature Corona beer and a Hornitos tequila bottle. Daily exercise could be an adventure in any direction-up and down the hills and valleys. One day we hiked to a small resort overlooking the city and rode a gondola back down. For the 7-hour journey from Taxco to Oaxaca, we followed the well-maintained 2-lane road winding through mountain passes and small towns. With Lorena oft proclaiming. "Look how beautiful," we passed sagging truckloads and local markets brimming with traditional yellow-orange marigolds and purple cresta de gallo (rooster comb) flowers, readying for the upcoming fiesta. Dia de Los Muertos is a strange fiesta to the US way of thinking. The bakeries and market booths sell cookies and cakes and candies made in the form of skulls. Every business and home erects an elaborately decorated altar to welcome the dead for the holiday. The streets are full of gaiety and families gather for picnics in the cemeteries. In the bustling markets the scent of the marigolds and special incense permeates the air. In Oaxaca, my shopping came to full bloom. No matter-I was in a real bouquet: Lorena and Laura introduced me to their favorite museums, galleries and artisan shops. They taught me where to buy the best mole and the cutest shopping bags. When we decided to decorate our hotel window with an altar, they knew where in the sprawling market to find the requisite egg bread. One day we drove to Mitla, to tour the Zapotec and Mixtec Indian ruins. Afterward we bargained for locally woven dishtowels, shirts, dresses and simple purses. In Teotitlan del Valle, we slowly walked the cemetery, fully decked out with flowers, glowing candles, and portions of the deceased's favorite foods and vices. Teotitlan is famous for its woven rugs and we visited with weavers in their home studios, me lusting to buy. (My pocketbook is fortunate that the definition of shopping also includes the search.) On another day, in two other villages, we sought vivid woven table runners and placemats and distinctively painted wooden animal carvings. On our last two days, we went to cooking school! I knew Seasons of My Heart cooking school would be the highlight of the trip, but it far exceeded my expectations-a brochure cannot prepare one for the richness of the experience. At nine in the morning, a big Chevy Suburban, caravaning with another van full of students, picked us up near the mercado in downtown Oaxaca and drove us to a small village north, one of several named Etla. We stopped in front of a large gate and a small woman with an immaculate white apron opened it to welcome us. Before we knew where we were, our hostess Dominga was preparing Chocolate Atole. Susana Trilling, who owns Seasons of My Heart Cooking School was translating every step, explaining in detail the unfamiliar ingredients and process. "The foam of hot atole drink is very important-it holds the spirit of the person who makes the beverage." Almost frantically, I tried to write every detail in my notebook. We drank the atole and munched on simple, delicious breakfast bread from the village bakery while Meche, a second Zapotec Indian woman, proceeded to prepare two salsas, one red and one green. She roasted ingredients on the comal, an open-fire earthenware griddle, and then ground them in the molcajete, the volcanic rock Mexican version of a mortar (and pestle.) Then she showed us how to make memelas from masa corn dough. Memelas are a Oaxacan specialty--perfect little munchies for the mid-morning meal. We shaped our personal balls of dough into flat ovals and baked them on the comal. Memelas get a little hand crimp around the edges to hold in the toppings-Meche and Dominga made it look easy and with practice I'm sure I would get better. I put frijoles (black bean paste) and both salsas on mine and topped it with fresh cheese. Meat eaters spread a little asiento (ground pork skin and bacon drippings) under the frijoles, salsas and cheese. Next we learned how they make cheese! Silvia is the expert from Reyes Etla, the cheese-making village. She demonstrated while Susana translated. We saw the milk coagulate from the enzyme, making jokes about cutting the cheese when Silvia gently did so with her hands. The first product was queso fresco, which we had put on our memelas, but we also learned how to make quesillo and requeson-much the same as mozzarella string cheese and ricotta, respectively. Our attention went back to Dominga for chocolate making. She roasted the cacao beans on the comal while Susana told the legendary origin of "food of the gods." As the roasted beans cooled, we students peeled off their shells and Dominga ground some cinnamon on the metate, another volcanic rock grinding tool, this one a large slanted rock. She ground the shelled cacao "nibs" into a shiny mass, adding some sugar and the cinnamon at the end. As soon as she stopped working the chocolate, it cooled into a block that she cut for our tasting. This is not the refined chocolate we use for desserts and candy making-that chocolate is made with hydraulic rollers and goes through another process called conching. Dominga's chocolate is the same as the chocolate selling like crazy in Oaxaca's mercados-produced there with machines that mimic the toil of Dominga's hands and the sweat of her brow. We said our good-byes and thanks before Dominga closed her gate and we drove away, I think sighs of amazement in us all. We then headed to the actual cooking school on Susana Trilling's property. Seasons of My Heart website describes the setting and curriculum. That afternoon, divided into small groups, we chopped, roasted, sautéed, mixed, pureed and baked. We cooked and learned and then we sat down together to eat. We made Cream of Poblano Chile Soup, a beautiful vegetable salad, 4 kinds of tamales and Coconut Ginger Flan. It was dusk before we climbed back into the vans for the ride back to our hotels. Our second day was similar in that we again spent the morning in a private home where a family graciously welcomed us and shared the details of their cuisine. Susana was just as excited as we were to learn the secrets of Sopa de Guias, their hearty squash and corn soup. We sat down to almuerzo (good-size mid-morning meal) with the Navarro Gomez family. Afterwards, the women showed and sold us their weavings and their son/brother displayed his paintings. Susana spent a portion of our tuition on two gorgeously brilliant watercolors. I could go on and on with the details. In a sentence: afternoon number two included Sopa de Tortilla and Mole Amarillo, and we studied well the makings of margarita cocktails. I have no doubt that my next trip to Oaxaca will include classes at Seasons of My Heart and I offer many praises to Susana and her staff for a memorable two days. And muchos abrazos y besos (hugs and kisses) to my amigas, Laurie and Laura (and Sue who arranged our days at the school) for introducing me to Oaxaca and all of its charms. The Bakers
Dozen
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Copyright 1999 - 2004 Letty Halloran Flatt, All Rights Reserved